Language: English

Pages: 382


Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

What do the thousands of images of bras and panties on perfectly sculpted bodies that we see spread across billboards and magazines say about our society?
Many women indulge in lingerie to please men. Yet, since antiquity, women have always kept lingerie hidden away under outer garments. Thus, lingerie must be more than erotic bait.
Authors Muriel Barbier and Shazia Boucher have researched iconography to explore the relationship of lingerie to society, revealing the economy and corridors of intimacy. They correlate lingerie with emancipation, querying whether it asserts newfound freedoms or simply adjusts to changing social values. This Mega Square book contains pictures of lingerie from the 17th to the 21st century.

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enables the figure to conform to new lines. It can give a round, uplifted, shapely, or flat bust; a more or less slender, invisible, or extremely obvious waist; and it can slim down or widen the hips. Imposing the demands of fashion upon the body, corsetry often goes against nature. Sport or summer corset and underskirt with bustle (called “crabtail”) 1875-80 Inv. 1920.1.968 Inv. 2003.73.X Musée Galliera, Paris 48 49 And as much as lingerie belongs to the realm of intimacy, corsetry is tied

reconcile, requiring draconian diets, padded bras, and even plastic surgery. Untitled Yva Richard, c. 1935 Silver print, 17.5 x 12.8 cm Private collection, Paris 146 147 Glossary Baby doll A very short nightgown introduced in the 1950’s made of sheer fabrics, usually nylon, but sometimes silk or cotton. Batiste Batiste (also called handkerchief linen). A fine fabric of sheer bleached linen. “Arwa” Anonymous, c.1935 Poster, 89 x 63 cm Bibliothèque Forney, Paris 148 149 Bikini A style

of the skirt). The bustle succeeded the crinoline around 1867, then disappeared around 1899. In France it was commonly called a faux cul (false rump). Slip dress 1955-1960 Musée Galliera, Paris 160 161 Corset Although more flexible than the whalebone body, the corset was made from heavy fabric and was stiffened and laced. It gave shape to the silhouette and the dress by constricting the waist and the stomach and by molding the breasts. It could be highly ornate. Corset cover A piece of

fabric strips (elasticized or not) with four garters for attaching stockings. The garter belt appeared around 1910. Ensemble in white lace Chantal Thomass Fall/Winter 2001-2002 178 179 Garters (bands) Belts or fabric bands (elasticized or not) worn around the legs above or below the knee to hold stockings up. Garters bands may be adorned with trimmings such as gold or silver fasteners, gems, and embroidery. Garter straps replaced garter bands in the 1900s. Nuisette Chantal Thomass

Chantal Thomass Fall/Winter 2001-2002 186 187 Lace A delicate openwork fabric in which warp and weft threads are indistinguishable. Lace fabric consists of a net ground (mesh) and motifs obtained by interlacing, twisting, looping, or braiding threads. Lace can be made from linen, cotton, ramie, silk, rayon, wool, or metallic and synthetic threads. There are different varieties of lace. Bobbin lace is made by taking threads attached to small bobbins and interlacing them at specific points

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